"Mañana" - The Andalucia Guide & Diary

Castellar de la Frontera

You have to choose second and third gears to negotiate the narrow and at sometimes precipitous, winding road up to the fortified village of Castellar de la Frontera, in Cadiz Province. The citadel dates back to 14th century Islamic Andalucia, boasting it very own Alcázar (which will soon open it doors as a small, all-suite boutique hotel).  Like most places close to the Andalucian coast, visiting off season is best, as mediaeval architects totally overlooked the future demand for parking spaces! The climb is well worth it, as it affords amazing views across the campo de Gibraltar, towards the rock, the Mediterrean, and today, the mountains of Morocco and Ceuta in the hazy distance.  Turning west we could see as far as Marbella’s la Concha of the Sierra Blanca and of course the Serranía de Ronda range; below is the Guadarranque reservoir, surrounded by pristine oak forests.
The narrow cobbled streets of the pueblo are interesting to explore; one moment you discover a small bar, or you can browse a gallery or simply walk between run down little cottages with geraniums in the windows or orange trees brushing against the walls.   Cadiz has to be one of my favourite provinces of Andalucia, as it has escaped the developers that have changed much of the coast. History suggests that the inhabitants of Castellar old town were content to be re-housed by the local council in new homes in Nuevo Castellar, in the valley below, as this new village community is immaculate with tended gardens, neat streets and elegant fountains. A far cry from some of the dodgy villages where the local council have built ugly modern blocks to re home people living in aging properties. 
Earlier in the day, we had taken the autopista expressway towards Sotogrande, taking the exit for the Castellar, traveling up through the edge of the beautiful Alconocales Natural Park (a national park in Andalucia), with its aged oaks and craggy landscape. Searching for the turning for the village of Castella de la Frontera, we made a fantastic little discover - a small, single star rural hotel, in a converted convent.  Hidden back from the road surrounded by century old oaks and aging palms, the Casa Convento La Almoraima is a real jewel.  This exceptional little place makes you feel as if time is standing still. The trickling of the Andalucian fountain is all one hears as one steps into the courtyard patio, filled with overgrown banana palms that touch the shutters of the rooms above.
The manager chatted to us about the history of the place and told us that it was once a 17th Century Convent, converted in the 19th Century into an aristocratic hunting palace and now a low-key, rural hotel serving high quality regional cuisine. There is an authenticity and tranquility about the place that I found really comforting and I will make a point of staying there in the future. (If you looking for something a little more up-to-date, then there is the 4 star Hotel Castellar near by). 
We polished off our little excursion in the hilltop village by polishing off a great lunch at the Venta Jarandilla, at the foot of the mountain. Mature cheese, cured ham, Rioja, and  tasty entrecote steaks...and icecream on the beach. Now that’s a good day out!

Taking a short cut in Andalucia

At 5.30 pm this afternoon I was taking this picture, deep in the Alconocales National Park.  Rafa & I were coming back from a weekend exploring more Pueblos Blancos, and decided to take a short cut from Vejer de la Frontera across the park to the autopista.  I was armed with little less than a free tourist map I had picked up the day before, and the little yellow marked road seemed a promising option.
The reality was a "forestal" - nothing more than a single track across the park - one that had not been maintained for many years! 
Unfortunately we were not in my 4 x 4, but Rafa's trusty-steed - a city Polo!  With ground clearance only marginally better than a snail and with wheels only slightly more robust than a Mercadona supermarket trolley, the little Polo persevered across the terrain and deep pot holes that crossed the entire lane!
However the 90 minute, 35 km adventure afforded us amazing views of the park - from deep WITHIN the park.  We also saw two huge weasal/rat things run across the lane!  They were over a metre long with really freaky tails!
Well, we made it home after a excellent weekend exploring new villages and towns, including a one-night stay in Arcos de la Frontera.  As the names suggest, these towns were on the frontier between the Arab and Christian kingdoms in Andalucia and offer a fascinating blend of architecture - even though the narrow streets now echo with the screech of  motos, or suped-up fiestas with music systems blaring. Not much to do in these places if you live there and happen to be 18 years old!

A morning sherry?

I have become quite proficient at cramming in a great deal into free weekends, with the hope of discovering more of Andalucia, and deciding what places are worthy of a more leisurely return visit.

The 10/11/12 June was Feria weekend in Marbella, with various street parties and live entertainment. On the Saturday we took the new A381 from the coast to Jerez. This road cuts a swathe through the amazing Alcornocales Natural Park.  Sad to see the construction in such a sensitive area, but it undeniable affords an amazing view of the area, it's ancient cork oaks, the craggy rock formations, and the storks, eagles and vultures above.

Jerez is of course the home of Sherry, an ancient fortified wine and favourite tipple of the English middle class. Research informs me that the Phoenicians brought the first vines to Jerez in 1100 B.C. introducing sophisticated wine making skills from the Middle East. The city is a little rough around the edges, as are many towns in Andalucia, but it has many superb old homes, reflecting the wealth created by the wine industry. 

Famous names of Anglo-Spanish businesses like Gonzalez Byass, Osborne and the like are all across town.  The Gonzalez Byass/Tio Pepe logo is the Spaniard with a guitar and the Osborne logo is the more famous Bull silhouette that has become part of Spanish national culture.  This picture captures the two icons side by side as you come into the city. It's strange really, when one considers the long history of exporting Sherry worldwide and the wealth it created in Jerez, but now Sherry is not as fashionable international and companies like Osborne probably make more money from their other brands like the Red Bull energy drink.

For me, Jerez had a very Latin feel about it - I felt I was in New Orleans, or Havana. The sleepy, slightly scruffy streets, the architecture, and of course the heat. It was over 32 degrees centigrade at 9.30pm as we explored the narrow streets and bars in the secluded squares.

El Puerto de Santa Maria, is not far west. Here the Latin feeling is even stronger. The town is littered with Bodegas, and storage vaults for wines and brandies and many of the places are open to the public offering tastings and tours.  For seafood there is only one place to go - Romerijo. This is a huge establishment straddling two blocks.  The choice is almost overwhelming.  In addition to the al la carte menu, there is a whole deli area dedicated to fried fish, like calamari and another huge counter offering a stunning array of fresh seafood and fish.  Customers can order for take away or have anything cooked to order and the eat it on the crowded terrace.  The place is an institution here, and the turnover is immense, so you are assured of the freshest possible seafood.

Cadiz is a short drive over the bridge. The city is a busy port on a narrow peninsula - practically an island.  New town is nothing to write home about, but old town and its cathedral are slowly being renovated by the Junta de Andalucia.  There are a few gems hidden away in the narrow streets. Tourism is coming here slowly, so really we're still pioneers in what is a still a sleepy back-water of Andalucia.

For me, Jerez is certainly worthy of a second visit. The City is growing fast and there is more choice for visitors.  It is well connected, as the airport is expanding (direct flights to Germany, and UK etc.), with good motorway connections to the coast and it is of course close to Seville and its high speed train network to Madrid and the rest of the continent.  A fascinating place, but you need to be able to bear the heat...   

Country Persuits

After a much needed café con leche followed by a near heart-stopping breakfast of huge fried churros and chocolate, we went to explore the countryside west and south of Ronda. This is a stunning part of Andalucia. Its relative isolation has protected it from the ad hoc and untidy development that litters much of the foothills north of the Costa del Sol. The area is a protected area, and unlike many of the so-called protected areas, the Parque natural de la Sierra seems to have escaped the illegal house and business construction that is still rife in Andalucia.

The area borders the famous Alconocales cork oak forest that run north towards Cadiz and Jerez. So many cork oaks dominate the hillsides and valleys. The trees are carefully managed, still harvested for their cork.

Although Spring has only just kicked off, wild flowers are more abundant and above us flew vultures and eagles - in quantities that I have never before seen; quite extraordinary.

I will update the Pueblos Blancos photo album with images from the day - capturing Grazalema, Ubrique, Cortes de la Frontera & Gaucin.