"Mañana" - The Andalucia Guide & Diary

The arrival of the Magi in Malaga - Three Kings - the most magical night of the year

Here in Spain this is one of the most magical nights of the year for youngsters. With the arrival of the Magi, the 'Los Tres Reyes', come presents! ( forget gold, frankincense and myrrh.... more Wii & iPod!)

'Cabalgatas' or parades are happening across the country tonight, marking the arrival of the Kings.

Everyone buys a Roscon cake to enjoy (hidden inside is a hard bean for the loser and a little King for the winner who gets to wear the Roscon crown) and tomorrow is a holiday and presents for everyone!!

Just because we¡re not kids doesn't mean we can't enjoy lots of cake - we enjoyed some tapas and then went to the new bakery in town.

Las burbujas de Freixenet - Call me Bubbles!

You know it’s the holiday season in Spain when the Freixenet spot airs on TV.

The ads vary in length from the 10 minute short film directed by Martin Scorsese in 2007, to the more conventional spots like this year’s 2 minutes 15 seconds.

This image is a capture from the 2011 spot, featuring the extraordinary talents of Sara Baras, a remarkable Andalusian Flamenco dancer, born in the neighbouring province of Cadiz (little piece of trivia; she was in Mission Impossible II, in one of the scenes in Sevilla) together with José Carlos Martínez (the artistic director and choreographer of The Spanish National Dance Company).

I think it’s going to be a favourite of mine; for its passionate, energetic fusion of quintessential Spanish Flamenco with classical dance.

This year's spot was created by agency, JWT, from their Barcelona office.

These Freixenet TV spots are always beautifully choreographed and produced, and are affectionately known as ‘Las burbujas de Freixenet’ or ‘Bubbles’ - and often include stars from the stage or screen, just to add even more sparkle and fizz (last year it was the beautiful Shakira, the Columbian pop star who is huge here in Spain and past stars over the past 30 plus years have included Liza Minnelli, Raquel Welch, Paul Newman, Antonio Banderas, Penelope Cruz, and Gwyneth Paltrow).

This year’s spot can be viewed in full here – it’s beautiful. This link is the official site where there is additional information about the production, including a documentary by Jorge Cosmen.

Images and TV spot are copyright Freixenet.

Suerte! Good luck in the Christmas Lottery!

Good luck everyone in the lottery!
Today is the big day, for the big Christmas lottery, affectionately called 'El Gordo' with a total prize fund running into hundreds of millions of euro. Tickets are hundreds of euro each but one can by 10ths - a decimo, which I have here.
The 'Sorteo de Navidad' is really the start of the festive season for many.
The draw takes hours and is being broadcast now on the radio and TV - thousands of painted wooden balls are drawn and each corresponding prize is sung by school children - totally bonkers and fantastic!

A Journey Through Andalucia's Eight Provinces

Despite the global downturn, the number of Brits staying in hotels in Andalucia has increased by some 10%, and the Junta de Andalucia has a powerful global marketing strategy to keep these figures on an upward trend. The World Travel, held earlier this month, was attended by Andalucia, with a major stand and a focus on more than just sun sea and sand. The cultural wealth of the region was promoted as well as the adventure activities and ski destination of Sierra Nevada were promoted.

Here is an article I wrote for 'the tourism magazine 2011' published by Sur in English and sponsored by the Junta de Andalucia as part of the campaign to promote this amazing part of the world.

Enjoying Seville’s 123 million euro mushrooms - ‘Setas de la Encarnación’

 

With the warm evening sun casting long shadows, the immense ‘Metropol Parasol’ of Seville looked truly stunning. The huge, sprawling organic structure has attracted local, national and international attention that has matched its overwhelming proportions.

The structure was forecast to cost some 50 million euro when it was conceived in the middle of the last decade, but has ended up costing a staggering 123 million euro upon completion this spring. It is quite a talking point in a city that like so many other across the world at the moment, is not quite sure how it’s going to balance its books.

The other issue of contention, as always is the aesthetics of this piece of contemporary architecture. Personally I really like the result. The city square is a mishmash of architectural styles as it is; some of the original period buildings have been torn down and have been replaced with soulless blocks. So for me the structure somehow creates not only an eye-popping focal point, but also brings a degree of cohesion to the area, pulling together all the different styles of architecture around the square, from ancient churches to bland offices. I am also glad to see something new, something striking in a city that is often regarded as conservative and traditional.

Created by award winning German architect Jürgen Mayer, the structure looks like something that has landed from another planet. Its series of interconnecting parasols create a canopy that although made of concrete, steel and pine wood, seems almost organic.

It covers the Plaza de Encarnacion well known for its local market, and provides a public space for the stallholders, an additional level for public events and above, there are elevated walkways – free to city residents or for a token 1.20 euro for visitors. Below ground, surrounded by glass walls and a glass ceiling is a museum showcasing the Roman ruins discovered during the excavations for the foundations.

The walkways float above the timber, lattice canopy, affording views across the entire city. It is a delight to see Seville from this perspective, looking towards the pavilions left behind from the 1992 Universal Exposition on the city’s Cartuja island; out towards the airport; and of course to closer sites, such as the towers of the recently restored Plaza de España, and the iconic Giralda tower of Seville Cathedral, the resting place of Christopher Columbus.

My flying visit to Seville was a real pleasure. Despite being a major destination for national and international visitors, the city retains is strong Andalusian and Spanish identity. As you know I love tapas and this has to be one of the best cities to enjoy some drinks and these distinctive, diminutive southern Spanish bites.

Needless to say I found time to enjoy some of the tapas bars in town, including the ‘Las Columnas’ (Bodega Santa Cruz) in the heart of the old district. It’s a cramped space, full of locals; you need to push to find space at the bar, but it is worth it to enjoy the atmosphere, and tasty treats like the pork in whiskey sauce. Your bill is written in chalk on the bar as it has been for decades.

Another quirky place is ‘Casa Morales’ – one bar is edged by huge vintage wine storage jars called tinajas. Here we enjoyed some excellent, thinly sliced tuna on bread dressed with a superb olive oil.

Seville is only two and half hours away, but it’s a different world – a place to lose yourself in Andalusian city life where the work life balance is still tilted in your favour.

Enjoying the Sport of Kings

A few days ago were the last of the season’s horse races on the beaches of Sanlúcar de Barrameda; these are not only an exciting international event, but a unique cultural experience.

As the ‘Sport of Kings’, horse racing has always been one of the highlights of the social scene across Europe and beyond. Combining the allure of thoroughbred horses; the determination of competitive jockeys; the refinement of fashionably dressed spectators; and of course the excitement of betting, horse racing is one of the most appealing events in the sporting calendar.

In southern Spain there is a unique series of horse races, held on the beaches of Sanlúcar de Barrameda that are an integral part of the country’s equestrian history and are of international acclaim.

The setting is stunning, on the broad golden beaches of the Andalusian fishing town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, with views out across the Atlantic Ocean. The town has a prestigious past, reflecting its historical position at the heart of Spain’s international exploration in early centuries and was the home of Royalty and aristocracy.

Yet it is the August horse race meetings that attract an international crowd of thousands wanting to share in the spectacle and excitement. The races are over distances of 1,500 and 1,800 metres and are a colourful sight, with each jockey wearing highly distinctive livery.

These beach races date back to 1845, and are the oldest flat races in Spain. It is believed they started as informal, impromptu competitions between owners of horses who used to transport the freshly caught fish from the port to nearby towns and markets.

Nowadays, the annual races are part of two meetings, each of 3 days in length – both in August. This year the meetings were on the 10^th, 11^th & 12^th of August and then again on the 25^th, 26^th and 27^th of August. These annual races are nationally and international recognised and are integrated into Spain’s national equestrian calendar. What is more, over the past 15 years, the horse races on the beaches of Sanlúcar de Barrameda have won a series of prestigious awards for their contribution to tourism and sport.

 Below is my piece that was published in the Russian Luxury Lifestyle Magazine, TOUT.

 

 

Luna Mora de Guaro festival 2011

Although I’m sad see the end of summer, September is without doubt one of my favourite months in Spain. What’s more, it is also the month of the ‘Luna Mora de Guaro 2011’ festival!

 

Each year the festival goes from strength to strength and this year the programme of events includes some superb concerts in the village’s new purpose built open air amphitheatre-style auditorium.

Vanesa Martín will perform, accompanied by the Symphony Orchestra of Malaga ) I recently saw her in concert in Fuengirola and it was a splendid night); and also, another Malaga province favourite, Pablo Alborán will perform some of his most well known, poetic songs in his distinctive Andaluz style (again I saw him in Fuengirola, a few years ago, before it made it in the mainstream - he sang in a small bar and it was captivating); whilst Mónica Naranjo will bring some glamour to the line up (she's a real Diva and super popular with the boys!)

The festival also includes a Moorish souk street market, street theatre and performers, as well as story-telling for kids and adults.

As a small plug, I want to mention that our charming cottage Cortijo de las Nieves just outside the village is available for 4 and 7 night rentals during the festival period.

A Country Escape in Andalucía – International House Hunters Episode HHINT-2702H – Andrew Forbes

Well, for those of you that enjoyed last night’s episode of International House Hunters on HGTV in the States, well I wanted to let you know that my house in the country is available for holiday rentals.

For full details visit the website for Cortijo de las Nieves or view the profile on Holiday Rentals.

Fishermen and Fiestas

Fuengirola, probably unfairly, is not always associated with the rich cultural history of Andalucía.  Instead possibly, images of '70s apartment blocks and all inclusive hotels spring to mind. Yet this fishing village turned mid range holiday resort does maintain its traditions.

Last night we took in the spectacle of the Virgin del Carmen procession in the Los Boliches neighbourhood of the town. It has the feel of an Easter Holy Week procession, with the large icon of a Virgin Mary being carried aloft on a large wooden float or ‘trono’ by local men.
Yet on this date, it’s a fisherman’s tradition. The locals, dressed in sailor attire, carry the icon through the town, along the paseo and towards the shore, followed by a band of musicians. There she is taken out onto the sea, the men wading chest high in water and then positioning her on a boat, surrounded by a flotilla of sailing and fishing craft - it all ends with spectacular fire work display. This is the annual celebration, (every 16^th of July), of ‘Nuestro Señora La Virgin del Carmen’ and is a familiar annual sight across the coast; but Fuengirola is probably one of the places where the whole affair attracts the greatest passion from ‘marineros’ or fishermen.

It also coincides with a feria in town too – a fun fair in the local feria ground, where we took in a concert from Vanessa Martin, a lyrical rock chick, born and raised in Fuengirola and now hitting the big time in Spain. Walking towards the stage at the back of the ‘recinto ferial’  we passed the kiosks, stands and games of the fair, the high speed rides, deafening music and noise, with the sweet smell of candies and roasted nuts filling the air. 

Museo CarmenThyssen – the investment in redefining Málaga continues

Málaga may have been unsuccessful in its recent bid to be European City of Culture 2016, but the capital of Málaga province (and de facto capital of the Coast) continues to invest in its cultural offering.
Last week I finally got to see the newly opened Museo CarmenThyssen in Málaga.  It is housed in the newly renovated Palacio de Villalón, a 16^th century city palace that still retains a beautiful Andalusian internal patio, (with views up to the impressive spires of the neighbouring iglesia del Sagrado Corazón) and some intricate Moorish carved wooden ceilings.

The protagonist though is the art, which here is mainly 19th Spanish works, with a focus on Andalucía. There is an impressive collection of landscapes and city scenes capturing a charming, clichéd view of the region. Moorish architecture, gypsies, flamenco dancers, bulls and bandits all combine to give a truly romantic view of historical Andalucía.

The museum’s collection is on loan from the Spanish Socialite and Baroness, Carmen Thyssen. The former Miss Spain is the widow (and fifth and last wife) of Baron Thyssen-Bornemisza, who had a huge collection of paintings and sculptures and other works of art. The flagship Thyssen-Bornemisza museum is in Madrid, and was inaugurated in 1992. Carmen attracted controversy during her marriage with the Baron as she allegedly tried to cast doubt on the legitimacy of his heirs in her alleged attempt to secure control of the art collection.

To her credit, Baroness Carmen Thyssen has built up her own fine collection of art and has been energetic in her desire to share it with the nation.

Málaga’s success in attracting the art gallery has helped to focus more investment in another corner the of city’s fascinating old town – in fact close by I saw renovation and construction of a new arcade, so despite the downturn, investors recognise the potential of the city.

Baroness Carmen Thyssen’s cultural investment in Málaga is certainly a welcome one and further enhances the city’s credentials as a destination city, rather than just a gateway to the Coast.