Renaissance Weekend

The Moors has dominated much of Andalucía for centuries leaving a distinct and powerful architectural heritage.Yet, Andaluz also boasts a proud European cultural heritage and enjoyed the highs of the Renaissance period where science, technology, commerce and art combined to create a high point in terms of architecture for this area. Made wealthy by the poor working the estates, the nobility competed in building the most stunning homes, places and public building likes churches and colleges. Úbeda is probably one of the finest examples of an Andalucían Renaissance City, almost hidden in Jaen province. In fact it is known as “la ciudad perdida”, as written about by poet Federico García Lorca.
This was my first time driving across this part of Andalucia. It’s the biggest supplier of olive oil, and looking at the kilometres and kilometres of groves, stretching as far as the eye can see, it’s no surprise.
Nothing on the drive gives one any indication of what is about to be discovered. The neat but somewhat boring olive groves would occasionally be interrupted by the odd, ugly town either surrounded by smoky olive processing plants, ceramic or furniture factories and stores. But the journey is well worth it, as suddenly one comes across Úbeda.
It truly is a gem and seems to only recently to have been recognised as a world heritage site and the Junta de Andalucía is beginning to kick start a enormous task of renovating and saving the huge array of Renaissance architecture that fills the centre of the city. Everywhere you look there is a stunning former home of the nobility, or a church with breathtaking detail in its construction. With their warm, sandstone walls and intricately carved detailing, each building combines to make stunning streets. I will add a photo album on the site to give an idea. About half the centre is either renovated or being reformed – with streets upon streets of building waiting to be rescued. In the heart of the old town is a Parador, affording a great place to take a coffee in the peaceful, sun filled patio.
Baeza is close by and although much smaller, shares the Renaissance heritage of its wealthier neighbour, with a wonderfully selection of buildings and narrow streets to explore. There are also two charming boutique hotels in the town.
As the sun was going down, we arrived in Jaen, with its outstanding Cathedral. Other than that, nothing really to right home about, with its hideous 60s and 70s town architecture that has almost completely eclipsed the beauty of the few Renaissance building left standing. We’d mistakenly booked a hotel over the internet at the last minute and found it was out of town, next to a gas station and opposite a concrete factory! No quite the Renaissance Andalucían theme I had in mind this weekend! As a testament to how friendly Spanish folk can really be here, the receptionist managed to cancel out internet booking without charge so we could stay somewhere a little enchanting! We secured a last minute room in the Parador, proudly positioned in the Castillo de Santa Catalina, with stunning views of the Renaissance Cathedral below, the countryside beyond and the snow capped mountains in the distance.

Before I sign off, it must be said that today is of course the second anniversary of the horrific terrorist bombings on the commuter trains in Madrid.  I echo the words left on a card with flowers at a Madrid Metro Station; “Justicia, Tolerancia, Paz”,

Baeza -from the gloriously kitch and dramatic cinematic shorts, "Andalucia es de cine"  - now available on DVD in English and Spanish.